“It’s like a Love Letter”: Mai-Lan Tomkins on Photography, Her New Embroidery Business and Getting Involved in Ottawa’s Creative Community
Kyle, 2022. Photographed by Mai-Lan Tomkins
“I like shooting places as people,” says Ottawa photographer Mai-Lan Tomkins. “When I take a picture of a place, I don't want to simply document it–I’m trying to capture my connection to the moment and its place in time.”
It was around 2013/2014 when Mai-Lan started pursuing photography projects. She’d just finished university, where she explored painting, wood shop, sculpture, film and photography - a blend of creative interests. “I wanted to see better photos on Facebook,” Mai-Lan says. It was a time when people casually posted photos to share with friends and family, before the polished and edited content that dominates social media today.
“At the time, social media was very different. I wanted to see people have better pictures for their bands or their events. I even did some wedding photography and headshots, but I didn't make a living off that. I was trying to practice photography, and hoping people would take better photos.”
This evolved into expansive collections of work, capturing both places and people. “You take pictures of what already exists. Your role as a photographer is to move yourself and your machinery around to frame it. Anyone can take a picture of a tree, but how do you want to convey it? Elements like contrast, line, texture, colour, the way you compose them and put them together will either harmonize or not.”
Portrait-Three of Four by Ayse Erkmen, 2019. Photographed by Mai-Lan Tomkins.
With this approach, Mai-Lan can find inspiration anywhere. “ When I walk around, or when I'm in the passenger seat of a car or train, I’m focused on observing elements. Looking out the window, I can see a tree and wires. As I look at it, I think about what's the best vantage point to get them in the same frame with good composition.”
Capturing People As They Are, Not as You See Them
As far as taking photos of people, Mai-Lan takes a different approach. ”When it comes to places, I have more control over how I capture them. I’m imposing a part of me and my feelings on my place. I don't try to do that with people. I try to capture their authentic self.”
Something, Mai-Lan says, takes a lot of trust and patience – one of the reasons she usually only photographs friends.
“It’s like a love letter,” she adds. “I always send people some of the pictures I take of them. Sometimes I have them printed and give them as a gift. A lot of times the photos of my friends are kept in private collections.”
Ultimately, her photography is about capturing a moment in time. “Memory is such a strong element to being human. What a gift we can take a picture of something and recall it back” she says. “Part of it is that I want a beautiful picture of my friend forever. I hold them near my heart, even if they’re not in my life anymore.”
Catherine, 2020. Photographed by Mai-Lan Tomkins.
“It’s a Hard Love”: Shooting with Analog and Digital Cameras
Mai-Lan works with both analog (film) and digital cameras, having inherited a lot of her gear from her father, who was a photographer himself.
“Careful and intentional” is how she describes her process of shooting with an analog camera, which she says, “forces her to be patient.”
Her machine is older, heavier, and requires more craftsmanship to get elements like the lighting conditions, tripod and feel of the camera right. “Because I only have 24-36 negatives, I need to take the time to prepare. Unlike digital, You can't take hundreds to get that one good shot”.
She’s also come across camera equipment in unexpected places - such as a stranger on the subway in Vancouver. “An older gentleman noticed the strap of the Nikon F I’d inherited from my father. He recognized the camera and said he doesn’t shoot it anymore because it’s ‘a hard love,’ but he had a bunch of lenses.” After an email exchange, she learned he loves digital photography and worked for an agency in the ‘80s. He’s retired now and loves going to the symphony with his wife. For the cost of shipping, he sent her the lenses.
“A few were for me, and the rest for the community. There are people who have these things sitting around and see this resurgence of film photography with younger people. There are people willing to share the wealth of gear, equipment, and knowledge,” something she aims to share herself.
Digital on the other hand, while involving some fine tuning with the camera itself, will “shoot how you want it to shoot,” one reason she prefers it for shooting at night. It also lets her get great when it comes to editing. “With digital, I can change the whole mood through editing.”
Collapsing New People by France-Lise McGurn, 2019. Photographed by Mai-Lan Tomkins.
Do it for the Grain and Supporting Local Photographers
Mai-Lan’s work led to a natural collaboration with Ottawa’s Do it For the Grain (DIFTG), a photography collective that promotes and empowers local photographers through education opportunities, fostering community, access to resources, and a print publication. Mai-Lan is a board member at DIFTG, focused on education and outreach.
DIFTG, which celebrated its fourth anniversary this March, hosts various in-person activities for local photographers, starting with National Gallery visits on the last Thursday night of each month. “It’s on a free night to make it more accessible and we’ll be looking at photo-based artwork. It’s an opportunity to meet people who are part of the community and look at art together.”
This Spring, DIFTG will be resuming their free photo walks, which give photographers with any skill level and gear (film, digital, or even mobile) the opportunity to capture new areas of the city while being led by a local photographer.
Mai-Lan encourages interested photographers at any level to join. “Participants have all backgrounds and skill levels. It’s a good way to meet people in the community–people eager to join, talk gear, and share ideas,” she says. “If you want to grow your skill level, come meet people.”
How Ottawa’s Art Community Creates Opportunities for Emerging Artists
While DIFTG is focused on photography, Ottawa offers many options for new and aspiring artists across any medium. “I think Ottawa’s small big city vibe is its edge. It's very community-based.” Something she says makes the city more accessible for artists at any stage.
For people looking to be more involved in the community, Mai-Lan suggests “Go to free events. Step outside of your comfort zone. Go to an art gallery. Go to a show. If you see someone with a cool hat, start a conversation with them. If not in person, take advantage of social media. If you like the work of an artist, you saw somewhere, then tag them. Other people might relate and engage with you. Or look into artists, maybe they’re from here. There are a lot of ways to connect with people online.”
She adds, “I am happy to say Ottawa offers so many free resources for artists. Canada Council for the Arts has an art space anyone can walk through. So many local Coffee shops showcase artists, like Art House Cafe, and can be a great way to meet people. Debaser also puts on an event called Pique which is great for people to connect in arts and culture.”
Mai-Lan also encourages people to support free arts organizations through volunteering and donations. “Grants exist, but if you have the means to donate to an organization providing free resources, know it always goes back to the growth of the organization. It creates the opportunity for more in-depth events and opportunities for everyone. Grants help, but sometimes we need our community members as well.”
Ottawa can be overlooked by some of the bigger cities, but there’s a thriving creative community and many supportive people looking to help each other grow.
Portrait of Mai-Lan Tomkins photographed by Nicolai Gregory.
Finding Inspiration Through Other Artists
Mai-Lan finds inspiration everywhere. As a former Interpreter for the National Gallery of Canada, she’s well-versed in artists across mediums and has some favourites she turns to for specific inspiration:
Colour Theory: Marigold Santos
Texture: Barbara Hepworth
Composition: Mimi Jung
Lighting: Greg Crewdson
Spiritual Connection: Georgia O’Keefe
Embroidery: my god is Tessa Perlow
“I love the sensory elements of their work,” Mai-Lan says. “I love how it feels in my body when I experience their work. I like the idea of bringing those elements–purely sensory reactions–to my own.”
Creating Sustainable and “Beautiful Everyday Objects” with Needle’s Eye Embroidery
Mai-Lan’s love for the sensorial and tactile lend itself well to her newest venture - her embroidery business Needle’s Eye.
While she first learned to sew from her Mom and Grannie when she was young, the idea for her business started in January 2021, when in the midst of the pandemic, she started embroidering a denim jacket. She had plans to expand her business when a tragedy hit her family. Her father passed away from Covid-19 in May 2021, just as vaccines were becoming available to the city.
“For almost a year, I didn't touch anything. I was helping my mom. I felt so drained from my feelings and the grief. I couldn't go back to art. I had all these clothes I wanted to get rid of - but they were good quality. Nice materials like linen and cotton. Slowly, I started embroidering again. I finished that denim jacket, then made another and another.”
From there, Needle’s Eye was born. The name is borrowed from the type of needle used for embroidery.
“I didn't know there were different types of needles. Sewing needles have a smaller eye [the opening in the needle]…. When I started to invest, I learned embroidery needs a larger eye for embroidery floss. I’m hoping Needle’s Eye will catch the eye of other embroidery artists, and I thought it was a cool name.”
Finding healing in the medium and feeling connected to her father through photography is something she carries with her as she continues to expand her business. Currently, Needle’s Eye features a small collection of embroidered linens available through Instagram–tea towels and pillowcases and gender-neutral garments. Mai-Lan also takes commissions ranging from denim jackets and pants, to tote bags, working closely with the client to create something unique.
Her goal for this business is intentionality, “We don't need to buy so many things,” she says. Sustainability is a priority, as she uses found materials and second-hand pieces to give them another life, one she hopes customers make last. By making normal “everyday objects beautiful,” Mai-Lan hopes customers will be more inclined to enjoy the items for a long time. “Things that are beautiful tend to last longer,” she says. It’s not just a tea towel, it’s a conversation piece, it’s beautiful and it’s sustainable.”
As for the designs themselves, many come from a love of florals and a sense of play. “ I don't know how the project will turn out. So I start with the basics. I start with the material and play around with it. I sit on the ground and lay everything out,” she says. “I look at the colours and what I have available, then consider: What would look nice together? What designs do I want to do first? I choose the elements and then draw, thinking about how they will flow on the body. “
As Mai-Lan continues to grow Needle’s Eye in 2023, her plan is to launch the new website and expand her offerings with a focus on embroidered linens and denim shirts.
“Some designs have positive affirmations,” she adds. “Who doesn't want a pillowcase that says good morning and goodnight?”
Much like her approach to photography, “it’s a way I like to share a little bit of love.”
